One of my mild obsessions is the shape of the Ewa Michalak bras. This video was shared with me to pass along as a great example of the proper way to put on a bra.
Source
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One of the important pieces in the wire fitting stage is doing a root trace. Not everyone needs this if they have wires in stock and their anatomy lines up well with a certain wire. However, some people may not have a stock of wires, and then it's nice to line this root trace up with wire charts so you have some idea of what to order. One of the most recommended websites for this tutorial is the Kimtimates website. Slight Nudity in this one.
Another great resource (there is nipple showing in this one) shows the trace lined up with a wireHow To: Breast Root Trace **Slight Nudity**
There's been a lot of discussion online about breast roots. Do you have wide roots, narrow roots, short roots, long roots? It all sounds interesting, but what is a breast root?! The breast root is the inframammary fold. It's basically where your breast attaches to your torso.
Bra Underwires 101: A Basic Guide | The Lingerie Addict
Today's guest post is by Lyzzy Beswick. Hailing from the beautiful Derbyshire Peak District, Lyzzy is a DeMonfort Contour and NTU Fashion Management Graduate. She currently works as a freelance technical lingerie designer for KissMeDeadly, Augustine London and several other independent brands. Her obsessions include pole dancing, antique lingerie, rock music, Smart cars and green tea.
If you are interested in going the route of sewing bras, there is a process recommended to get started. This post used to be a comment that I'd throw on forum questions and was too long (it was getting out of hand), and I am shortening it by breaking into topics on my blog, covering all the same posts I used to, from many well known makers. In each of the topics listed below, you'll find many links and as I find new things, they will be added to the topics. This post can be viewed as a sort of table of contents.
Before sewing, I highly recommend fabric kits from the designer whose pattern you are using until you are more familiar with the process and what kind of fabrics are suitable.
[1] Wire needs to be the right width from sternum to armpit.[2] The band needs to fit around the body, tight to the sternum in the center front first (independently from cup volume) [3] cups need to be correct volume/shape for YOUR particular anatomy. RTW expects you to fit in the average wire for the average volume for the average band circumference... Which fits almost no one the way it's supposed to... I wrote more about that here...
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/p/why-have-custom-bras.html
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/p/why-have-custom-bras.html
There’s some great articles out there on the proper way to put the bra on and adequately test it’s volume. Make sure when you get to the step of checking your cups for fit, you know that you have scooped the “girls” into the cups properly.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Proper%20Bra%20Wearing
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Proper%20Bra%20Wearing
This fitting process can be done to any pattern, and here is a perfect example of this process being applied to the Chloe Pattern by BraMakery’s Natasha, shown by Liz of Youtube's LizSews Channel.
[1] How a wire should fit.
This measurement is taken by Bra-makers either with a flexible ruler or with different sizes of underwires until one properly fits the infra mammary crease. If you find underwires uncomfortable or poking you, more than likely they are the wrong size for your anatomy. Warning: Slight nudity in some of these tutorials.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Wire%20Fitting
Wires can be altered to fit. Most people can find some sort of wire shape out there that will work, but some absolutely cannot find one that is shaped properly for the shape of their root. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Wire%20Alterations
[2] How a band should fit
A Band should be fitted independent from cups. We always tell people starting fresh to bra sewing to make a band with no cups and get that to fit correctly, first. Center against sternum with no breast tissue behind. See picture at end of post with the frame on a mannequin. There are many posts on this subject, including one that I did with extra seam allowances for being able to alter easily. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Fitting%20Bands
Once you’ve tried on the fitting band, take note of the alterations that need to be done and stitch them into the fitting band.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Band%20Alterations
[3] Then make cups
Start by making the cup size that the pattern designer recommends, because each designer will have their own chart in mind about what measurements make up what name in their sizing system. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Fitting%20Cups
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Cup%20Alterations
One more thing, I highly recommend the Eve Pattern if you’re interested in doing some designing, or if you’ve not had any successes with patterns in the past. The Eve Classic Pattern is as close to a custom draft as is possible in Patterns. Also, if you somehow don’t fit in this range of patterns (which has more than 1000 options for custom sizing) Information can be found here for learning to draft bras from scratch here. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/p/the-eve-revolutionary-to-bramaking.html
In my bra making journey, I tried (and failed miserably) at some patterns that were not my size in an era (more than 10 years ago) where the patterns mostly matched the traditional American sizing of ABCD and then you were usually told to go up in band size to get a bigger cup. I made between 10-15 bras that didn't fit and I didn't know enough about the order of alterations and how to fit bras to make them work.
About 2-3 years ago, I started to go back over my bra making information and books, and I discovered that the internet has become a GAME CHANGER for the home sewist who knows nothing about fitting.
My curiosity led me to The Bra Making Forum which is a group on facebook hosted by a small business, known as The BraMakery (formerly ArteCraft). The group has 14,550 members (to date) from all over the world. Natasha, who owns and operates the BraMakery, is one of the most well read people I have encountered on the subject. I have learned so much about bra theory and the process of fitting an existing pattern from her group. She has recently released a pattern of her own called The Chloe, which is featured in this video below by Liz of the popular YouTube channel LizSews.
The process that is recommended over and over to new sewists is to start by doing a breast root trace, known as a Wire Fitting, then making a fitting band and doing band alterations, then making fitting cups and doing cup alterations. Liz makes a beautiful demonstration of this process and how to apply it to the Chloe pattern.
I have often talked in our shop how if your cup is too small and band is too big, its like a yarmulke (no religious disrespect meant - just an illustration of small) with a chin strap rather than a nice stocking cap that comes down over your ears. This blogger has some great photos of this idea.
Bra Science - 11 Signs You May be Wearing a Boob Hat
Do you feel unsupported by your bra? That it squashes your boobs down instead of lifting them up? Or maybe you feel that your bra is just a useless garment altogether, costing quite a bit of money considering it just doesn't really do anything? You may be wearing... a boob hat.
This article is an EXCELLENT list of rib shapes in a discussion about how it affects bra shapes.
Rib Cages and Bra Fitting - a Masterpost
I've realised that while there are titbits (pun intended) of information about how rib Cages can affect bra fit floating around, it's never been collated into one easy to access article. So I've tried to do that: most of the information in this post is credited to other hardworking bloggers, please check out the credits at the end to support their work!
This is one of the best images I have ever seen on the internet about the reason you need to reach in and pull the breast up into the cup to be properly seated and be certain the bra fits correctly. Please check out this website, it is filled with amazing photos of how bras fit with and without adjustment.
Putting your Bra on Properly - Bras and Body Image
Lately, I've been reading a lot of comments in online communities where someone has bought a new bra after following a modern measuring guide, and they believe it doesn't fit. Usually, there are complaints that the bra is too big in the cups and too small in the band.
Here's a fabulous video by Curvy Kate on swooping and scooping the "girls" into the cups of a bra. Not properly picking them up into the cups can give a deceiving estimation of fit.
If you are medically able, it is much better for the life of your bras if you can hook them from the back. Feeling for hooks and eyes may take practice, but if you hook in front an twist, you distort wire shape, elastic stretches out of shape faster, and putting the straps on after band is hooked can break the stitches in the front. Here's a quick video...
If this is your first trial of this pattern, I highly recommend making a fitting band, following the process I did with A Client's Fitting Band Part 1 and Part 2 before moving on to cutting out the bra like Jennifer does in part 2 of the Eve instructions. I did some extra steps that makes it easier to change the center front for the splay of the wires, sides seams for the angle of the torso shaping and the curve of the back, in case a downward hike is needed where you have side back darts in clothing for a very curved small of the back and a very rounded shoulders (dowagers hump). I mention this before moving on to step 2, because Part 2 is cutting out your fabric and you would then cut it differently. Here's Jennifer's fitting band video and she does each wire differently to show 2 different methods of attaching cups.
Once a fitting band is established, then cut out and stitch together the cups to try in the band. If they fit ok, they can be reused in the final bra. If not, you either go up a cup size or down a cup size as necessary like I did in the tester cups for my client's test cups.
There are many patterns available to home Bra Sewists. Clearly, I am a big fan of The Eve Classic pattern, because of its versatility in being used as a sloper to create your own designs at home. I will feature other popular sew alongs later, because they may be relevant to designs you might create on your own, or you may prefer to buy a designer's pattern and alter it for fit. Either way, I highly recommend Bare Essentials: Bras to understand the drafting process as the alterations for fit will help with any pattern you may need to alter.
If this is your first trial of this pattern, I highly recommend making a fitting band, following the process I did with A Client's Fitting Band Part 1 and Part 2 before moving on to cutting out the bra like Jennifer does in part 2 of the Eve instructions. I did some extra steps that makes it easier to change the center front for the splay of the wires, sides seams for the angle of the torso shaping and the curve of the back, in case a downward hike is needed where you have side back darts in clothing for a very curved small of the back and a very rounded shoulders (dowagers hump). I mention this before moving on to step 2, because Part 2 is cutting out your fabric and you would then cut it differently. Here's Jennifer's fitting band video and she does each wire differently to show 2 different methods of attaching cups.
I've been reading bra theory for a couple of years and the discussions in the "Bra Making Forum" group on Facebook that is hosted by The BraMakery have been as informative as any of the textbooks I've gotten my hands on.
Here's a very detailed description of the purpose of a wire in a bra by Natasha of The BraMakery.
Underwire Theory: Purpose of an Underwire
This is the first post in a new series about the theory behind underwires. This series will cover several topics including wire types, wire spring/splay and choosing an underwire for your shape. This post will cover why underwires are used in bras and give a quick overview of their purpose.
https://www.katmakes.com/blog/2019/6/12/tutorial-tailors-boob-ham
Bra maker Grace Horne made 2 versions to have two shapes for pressing. Here's the first one, with 6 panels for a more round shape than a 4 panel.
Here's the second version:
"I made mine with a wool (green) outer, a cotton layer and then wool felt layer. Because I didn’t want the bulk in the seams, I cut the black felt at the seam lines and tacked all the layers together close to the edge."
"I sewed three sections together and retacked the seams opened to hold the layers. I gave it a good press and then zigzagged over the seam to keep it flat and secure the internal felt layer."
"The two halves got sewn together, pressed open and top stitched too."
"I zigzagged around the edge of the black felt on the bottom edge of the dome and around the felt on the base piece. When I sewed the base on, I left 1/3 open and again tacked the seam allowances to each side and turned it right side out."
"I used three pieces of thin (Amazon book envelope) card in the base. They have to be folded and then stuffed in and turned and flattened. You want the grain (folds) to go across each other."
"And then you stuff and stuff and when you think that you’re done you give it a massage and stuff it some more."
"And finally stitch it up. And clean up all the wood chips that the dog has spread around the house! 😁"
Many thanks to Grace Horne for sharing her process!
It is very easy to have wires laying around and not know their size. I originally put this tutorial together with this in mind, but I want to talk about manufacturers for a minute. I've now been through two drafting courses and both sets of teachers (and well known bra making suppliers) have discussed how you can send a schematic to a manufacturer all you want, but they never come back quite the way you expect. I have a strong opinion on the subject. Wires should be actually put up to the body in a wire fitting and if you know the name of the wire that's great for knowing how to order more.
It is a little difficult to determine what size will be right by just doing a wire trace and comparing to a chart and hoping that the wire that comes in the mail actually matches the schematics. For this reason, I highly recommend that if you are making bras for clients, you get a set of wires for doing wire fittings and then do this process of measuring below to get the diameter necessary for doing custom work. If you are doing this process for making bras for yourself and you did a root trace, rather than testing physical wires, I would order the size your root trace and 2 or 3 sizes larger. Slightly bigger is going to be better than too small and pinching breast tissue.
The most accurate rule of thumb is to actually have wire in hand for a wire fitting and for drafters to actually have wire in hand while drafting so you can trace it right into your draft.
Without further ado, here is the process of measuring wire diameter:
Lay your wire on a piece of paper so you can trace it.
When you trace, you want the inside diameter because this is where the seam goes when you attach the cup to the band.
The wire tracing.
Fold the paper so the circle lines mostly line up.
Fold the paper so the circle is lines up again
Measure from the point to the circle. This will be your radius for your compass.
Measure the wire like this to make sure the radius you ended with seems logical.
(radius times 2 to find diameter)
(radius times 2 to find diameter)
In bra patterns, makers have to pick a width between the breasts. This is usually another average and in Ready to Wear, it's another difficult hurdle, for some, to find anything that fits.
In my posts about a client's fitting band Part 1 and Part 2, I shared a band where I had extra seam allowance in the center front to give the ability to account for altering the bridge for the angles the wires may need to sit to trace the inframammary crease on each person's body.
In this photo above, the bridge I had made was too wide and I pinned it in on the client. The photo below is how those pins translated into altering the band. This particular client needed the wires to overlap at the top and a little extra space at the bottom.
Another way to be able to alter this space is to "take a measurement," so to speak, by making card stock bridge halves that perfectly align with the shape of the wire. An easy way to do this is to trace the wire on paper, or take a photocopy if you have a copier. This can be taken at the time of measuring for a bra, and fitting the wire. Technically, you are fitting not only the bridge, but you are deciding at what angle the wires need to sit to follow the shape of your body, all at the same time. Also, this may help those who have one breast higher on the body than the other, you can paperclip the cardboard to match your shapes and trace at your drafting table.
The wire basically is shaped like a circle (in most cases) and the bridge area represents a quarter of the circle that the wire is based on. For those who are drafting with Bare Essentials, Third Edition, this is the quarter wire circumference from your particular wire.
Then, place a paperclip at the top and the bottom of the two pieces, and you can scoot them together; you may need to fold the paper if it's too wide, because some people need to overlap wires. You can slide them apart, or at different angles for what your own shape is like, to give you an idea of how to angle the bridge on the pattern to make the wires sit along your anatomy. Below are 3 angles of bridge testers, note the angle of the wires in each picture.
Once you have the cardboard shaped like your bridge, you can trace them on a piece of paper and fold in half to compare with most patterns. Most patterns are cut the center front on the fold, so most of the time, it is just a matter of changing that angle of the center front fold like I did on the fabric with the purple markings.
