Bras by Kristen

 

One of my mild obsessions is the shape of the Ewa Michalak bras. This video was shared with me to pass along as a great example of the proper way to put on a bra.
Source

https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Fabrics

[1] How a wire should fit.
This measurement is taken by Bra-makers either with a flexible ruler or with different sizes of underwires until one properly fits the infra mammary crease. If you find underwires uncomfortable or poking you, more than likely they are the wrong size for your anatomy. Warning: Slight nudity in some of these tutorials.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Wire%20Fitting


Wires can be altered to fit. Most people can find some sort of wire shape out there that will work, but some absolutely cannot find one that is shaped properly for the shape of their root. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Wire%20Alterations



[2] How a band should fit
A Band should be fitted independent from cups. We always tell people starting fresh to bra sewing to make a band with no cups and get that to fit correctly, first. Center against sternum with no breast tissue behind. See picture at end of post with the frame on a mannequin.  There are many posts on this subject, including one that I did with extra seam allowances for being able to alter easily. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Fitting%20Bands

Once you’ve tried on the fitting band, take note of the alterations that need to be done and stitch them into the fitting band.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Band%20Alterations




[3] Then make cups
Start by making the cup size that the pattern designer recommends, because each designer will have their own chart in mind about what measurements make up what name in their sizing system. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Fitting%20Cups

https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Cup%20Alterations



One more thing, I highly recommend the Eve Pattern if you’re interested in doing some designing, or if you’ve not had any successes with patterns in the past.  The Eve Classic Pattern is as close to a custom draft as is possible in Patterns. Also, if you somehow don’t fit in this range of patterns (which has more than 1000 options for custom sizing) Information can be found here for learning to draft bras from scratch here. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/p/the-eve-revolutionary-to-bramaking.html

I have often talked in our shop how if your cup is too small and band is too big, its like a yarmulke (no religious disrespect meant - just an illustration of small) with a chin strap rather than a nice stocking cap that comes down over your ears. This blogger has some great photos of this idea.

Bra Science - 11 Signs You May be Wearing a Boob Hat

Do you feel unsupported by your bra? That it squashes your boobs down instead of lifting them up? Or maybe you feel that your bra is just a useless garment altogether, costing quite a bit of money considering it just doesn't really do anything? You may be wearing... a boob hat.

Putting your Bra on Properly - Bras and Body Image

Lately, I've been reading a lot of comments in online communities where someone has bought a new bra after following a modern measuring guide, and they believe it doesn't fit. Usually, there are complaints that the bra is too big in the cups and too small in the band.

Here's a fabulous video by Curvy Kate on swooping and scooping the "girls" into the cups of a bra. Not properly picking them up into the cups can give a deceiving estimation of fit.

If you are medically able, it is much better for the life of your bras if you can hook them from the back. Feeling for hooks and eyes may take practice, but if you hook in front an twist, you distort wire shape, elastic stretches out of shape faster, and putting the straps on after band is hooked can break the stitches in the front.  Here's a quick video...