When you're Drafting with Bare Essentials Drafting Method, a common alteration that needs to be done is moving the apex toward the center front so the breast doesn't appear to be pointing towards the arms. In the bra-making world, this is often called "East-West" pointing and is not generally an appealing look under clothing since the seams are usually designed in clothing to be more front facing.
The following tutorial (and photos) are the work of Dale Hoffman and this tutorial is a post that I had intended to feature a year ago. (Such is life.)
Step 1
Complete page 166, 167 and 168 in Chapter 16 of Bare Essentials.
Place top and bottom facing each other so you don’t get confused
as to which way to move your apex. Ask me how I know this.
Step 2
Mark how far to move your apex and mark with a pencil.
I also mark my upper and lower cups with the same amount.
I have used pens to make it easier to see.
If you are only moving your apex a small amount,
you won’t need this mark on your lower cups as you would join
to the original vertical point. If I used the original vertical point
for my lower cups it makes them very misshapen
because of how big my apex move is.
Step 3
True your new apex point to the centre front and side seam points on your circle. True your new apex point to the centre front and side seam points on your circle.
Step 4
Now mark your new upper cup centre line.
And on the lower cups I mark a new centre line, or you can join
to the original vertical point. (Kristen's Note: On the Lower cups,
Dale uses the red line for her vertical split on her bras,
where I use the blue line. The red line made my boobs look crosseyed
which is as abnormal as east-west facing. Sometimes you just have to experiment)
Step 5
Erase your original apex pencil marks. Now you can follow page 170
and complete your torso shape adjustment if you need any.
You can split your lower cups at this stage as well.
