Fitting any bra pattern

by - March 24, 2020

If you are interested in going the route of sewing bras, there is a process recommended to get started. This post used to be a comment that I'd throw on forum questions and was too long (it was getting out of hand), and I am shortening it by breaking into topics on my blog, covering all the same posts I used to, from many well known makers.  In each of the topics listed below, you'll find many links and as I find new things, they will be added to the topics. This post can be viewed as a sort of table of contents.

Before sewing, I highly recommend fabric kits from the designer whose pattern you are using until you are more familiar with the process and what kind of fabrics are suitable.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Fabrics

[1] Wire needs to be the right width from sternum to armpit.[2] The band needs to fit around the body, tight to the sternum in the center front first (independently from cup volume) [3] cups need to be correct volume/shape for YOUR particular anatomy. RTW expects you to fit in the average wire for the average volume for the average band circumference... Which fits almost no one the way it's supposed to... I wrote more about that here...
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/p/why-have-custom-bras.html

There’s some great articles out there on the proper way to put the bra on and adequately test it’s volume. Make sure when you get to the step of checking your cups for fit, you know that you have scooped the “girls” into the cups properly.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Proper%20Bra%20Wearing

This fitting process can be done to any pattern, and here is a perfect example of this process being applied to the Chloe Pattern by BraMakery’s Natasha, shown by Liz of Youtube's LizSews Channel.

[1] How a wire should fit.
This measurement is taken by Bra-makers either with a flexible ruler or with different sizes of underwires until one properly fits the infra mammary crease. If you find underwires uncomfortable or poking you, more than likely they are the wrong size for your anatomy. Warning: Slight nudity in some of these tutorials.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Wire%20Fitting


Wires can be altered to fit. Most people can find some sort of wire shape out there that will work, but some absolutely cannot find one that is shaped properly for the shape of their root. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Wire%20Alterations



[2] How a band should fit
A Band should be fitted independent from cups. We always tell people starting fresh to bra sewing to make a band with no cups and get that to fit correctly, first. Center against sternum with no breast tissue behind. See picture at end of post with the frame on a mannequin.  There are many posts on this subject, including one that I did with extra seam allowances for being able to alter easily. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Fitting%20Bands

Once you’ve tried on the fitting band, take note of the alterations that need to be done and stitch them into the fitting band.
https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Band%20Alterations




[3] Then make cups
Start by making the cup size that the pattern designer recommends, because each designer will have their own chart in mind about what measurements make up what name in their sizing system. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Fitting%20Cups

https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/search/label/Cup%20Alterations



One more thing, I highly recommend the Eve Pattern if you’re interested in doing some designing, or if you’ve not had any successes with patterns in the past.  The Eve Classic Pattern is as close to a custom draft as is possible in Patterns. Also, if you somehow don’t fit in this range of patterns (which has more than 1000 options for custom sizing) Information can be found here for learning to draft bras from scratch here. https://brasbykristen.blogspot.com/p/the-eve-revolutionary-to-bramaking.html

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