Bras by Kristen

 I asked a LONG time ago for links to some folk's favorites and then I put them together on this page and promptly forgot about it for a year.  So here's some links gleaned out of one of the bramaking groups on facebook.  I haven't checked all these links, but here they are. 

Cloth Habits bra sew alongs. construction tutorials. https://clothhabit.com/tutorials-tips/

https://orange-lingerie.com/blogs/news/tagged/tutorials 

https://www.katmakes.com/blog/2017/8/1/changing-a-bra-pattern-from-full-to-partial-band-a-tutorial 

https://merckwaerdigh.wordpress.com/2016/07/14/how-to-add-elastic-in-a-bra-when-lycra-switches-to-scalloped-lace/ 

https://merckwaerdigh.wordpress.com/2016/04/10/creating-a-butterfly-back-in-your-bra/ 

http://alltheunderwear.sophiehines.com/sewing-lingerie-adding-accent-trim-into-seams/

A 5-part tutorial for Elan 645 bra pattern http://hooksandwires.blogspot.com/search/label/Elan%20645

And same for Elan 511 https://hooksandwires.blogspot.com/search/label/Elan%20511

And here's part 1 of her tutorial for Elan 530. (Links to next three parts are in the right margin.) These feel a bit dated (10 years old already!) but are well done. http://hooksandwires.blogspot.com/2010/03/elan-530-tutorial-part-one-trace-cut.html

Here is our course platform and the beginning sewing classes we are offering to teach people how to sew.  Like from the very beginning.  There's a workbook, lessons with videos, and a practice project at the end. Its available at an an early release discount while I'm still developing the course, but should be fully live by the end of February 2021!

 

Once a fitting band is established, then cut out and stitch together the cups to try in the band.  If they fit ok, they can be reused in the final bra.  If not, you either go up a cup size or down a cup size as necessary like I did in the tester cups for my client's test cups.

Without further ado, here is Jennifer's sew along of the Eve Classic pattern.





If this is your first trial of this pattern, I highly recommend making a fitting band, following the process I did with A Client's Fitting Band Part 1 and Part 2 before moving on to cutting out the bra like Jennifer does in part 2 of the Eve instructions. I did some extra steps that makes it easier to change the center front for the splay of the wires, sides seams for the angle of the torso shaping and the curve of the back, in case a downward hike is needed where you have side back darts in clothing for a very curved small of the back and a very rounded shoulders (dowagers hump). I mention this before moving on to step 2, because Part 2 is cutting out your fabric and you would then cut it differently. Here's Jennifer's fitting band video and she does each wire differently to show 2 different methods of attaching cups.

I have been staring longingly at a sphere shaped pressing ham for bra cups on various people's sites, and had made up my mind to make one when a fellow bra maker shared this tutorial by Kat makes (and that's her picture above). Head on over and make a boob ham... Good sewing practice and excellent tool for bra-making.


https://www.katmakes.com/blog/2019/6/12/tutorial-tailors-boob-ham

Bra maker Grace Horne made 2 versions to have two shapes for pressing. Here's the first one, with 6 panels for a more round shape than a 4 panel.

Recap

The Assembly 

1. I always mark front, apex, base of the vertical seam, and front. It's too easy to mess it up otherwise. (As my bra friend Dale says, "Ask me how I know." )




I recommend to hold the tail of thread and lightly pull at the back to keep your fabric from getting sucked down into the machine.  (Some machines are more prone to this than others and if your fabric gets sucked down often, then I would start at the base of the cup and start up 1/4 inch, stitch up to the apex, turn and stitch back down to the base and back stitch at the base to reinforce the area you skipped to get started.)
















I pivoted, moved to the other side of the seam, and topstitched the other side at that same 1 - 2 mm from the seam.

End Results