I cut fabric for the fitting band in A Client's Fitting Band - Part 1. I show assembly in A Client's Fitting Band - Part 2. Then I cut and sewed tester cups in Test Cups for A Client. Here's my summary of how the fitting went.
Recap
With my client measuring at a rather extreme torso shape, I was concerned that her measurements may have needed shaping to the back in a downward hike like I highlighted in this post about band alterations, based on previous work that I have done for this client in shaping her back darts in her clothing. Therefore, I had created a "seam allowance" along the strap attachment point on her back band in case this alteration was necessary. I was almost hoping it was necessary, however, the band was successful exactly as the pattern was created. I'm a little disappointed that I can't show that alteration this time around.
Seam allowances facing outside the band for comfort of the client and for ease of manipulating in the fitting for being able to pin.
Inside of the fitting band, nice and smooth to the skin.
Fitting band on the hanger.
My client measured as cup #2 in the cups offered in the 34 wire size. So I made cups 1, 2, and 3 to have options for fit.
I started with cup #2 basted into the frame and pinned the straps on, because I wanted to be able to move the straps easily for this client. Strap attachment points can affect whether or not the straps dig into the muscle structure of the shoulders and if bra straps dig in a certain area of the shoulder it can create migraines (ask me how I know! This is why I don't care for X straps in the back.)
The Fitting Summary
When she tried on the bra, there was only a little extra in the cup. I probably could only pinch 1/4 inch of too much space in the cup. In a much larger size, I would not have thought of trying a smaller cup, but in this case, I knew that the differences between the sizes could not have been more than 1/4 inch from cutting it out and handling the patterns. In a client of this size, 1/4 inch elastic stretches in the sewing just enough that it dents in the breast tissue along the neckline edge. Because every underwired bra she has had seems to dig into her ribs/sternum, we have decided on a foam cup bra and the underwire channel being on top of the foam (an idea I have seen in ready to wear bras that I have altered).
