Fitting Wires
The very first measurement for drafting a bra is the width of the breast where it meets the ribcage. This measurement is taken by Bra-makers either with a flexible ruler or with different sizes of underwires until one properly fits the infra mammary crease. If you find underwires uncomfortable or poking you, more than likely they are the wrong size for your anatomy. Like many other pages on my site, I'm sharing some favorite links on the subject. Warning: Slight nudity in these tutorials.
Jane Ramsey of Jane's Foundations wrote this guest post on the Porcelynne blog about fitting the wire. This shows the breast root on a mannequin and has good advice about using bent wire rather than buying a bunch of wires that don't fit.
Many bramakers do a wire trace where a flexible ruler is used in the place of a wire when you aren't sure what size/shape is exactly needed. This is a wire trace from http://www.kimtimates.com/the-kimtimates-blog/how-to-breast-root-trace-slight-nudity There is slight nudity on this page, but it accurately shows where a wire is supposed to sit on the body.
This blogger shows how the 42L is the correct wire for her and the 38V is poking into her breast tissue.
https://www.mrsweaversfinest.com/single-post/2017/02/10/The-Mock-Cherry
This tutorial shows an excellent picture of the infra mammary crease or "breast root." In a well fitting bra, the wire should sit where the white line is defining the breast root in this photo.
https://clothhabit.com/bra-tips-fitting-an-underwire/
Jennifer of Porcelynne addresses wire fitting as part of the measurements that you take for drafting in general. This video will also be featured in this post about taking the rest of your necessary measurements.
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