If this is your first trial of this pattern, I highly recommend making a fitting band, following the process I did with A Client's Fitting Band Part 1 and Part 2 before moving on to cutting out the bra like Jennifer does in part 2 of the Eve instructions. I did some extra steps that makes it easier to change the center front for the splay of the wires, sides seams for the angle of the torso shaping and the curve of the back, in case a downward hike is needed where you have side back darts in clothing for a very curved small of the back and a very rounded shoulders (dowagers hump). I mention this before moving on to step 2, because Part 2 is cutting out your fabric and you would then cut it differently. Here's Jennifer's fitting band video and she does each wire differently to show 2 different methods of attaching cups.
Once a fitting band is established, then cut out and stitch together the cups to try in the band. If they fit ok, they can be reused in the final bra. If not, you either go up a cup size or down a cup size as necessary like I did in the tester cups for my client's test cups.
There are many patterns available to home Bra Sewists. Clearly, I am a big fan of The Eve Classic pattern, because of its versatility in being used as a sloper to create your own designs at home. I will feature other popular sew alongs later, because they may be relevant to designs you might create on your own, or you may prefer to buy a designer's pattern and alter it for fit. Either way, I highly recommend Bare Essentials: Bras to understand the drafting process as the alterations for fit will help with any pattern you may need to alter.
If this is your first trial of this pattern, I highly recommend making a fitting band, following the process I did with A Client's Fitting Band Part 1 and Part 2 before moving on to cutting out the bra like Jennifer does in part 2 of the Eve instructions. I did some extra steps that makes it easier to change the center front for the splay of the wires, sides seams for the angle of the torso shaping and the curve of the back, in case a downward hike is needed where you have side back darts in clothing for a very curved small of the back and a very rounded shoulders (dowagers hump). I mention this before moving on to step 2, because Part 2 is cutting out your fabric and you would then cut it differently. Here's Jennifer's fitting band video and she does each wire differently to show 2 different methods of attaching cups.
I've been reading bra theory for a couple of years and the discussions in the "Bra Making Forum" group on Facebook that is hosted by The BraMakery have been as informative as any of the textbooks I've gotten my hands on.
Here's a very detailed description of the purpose of a wire in a bra by Natasha of The BraMakery.
Underwire Theory: Purpose of an Underwire
This is the first post in a new series about the theory behind underwires. This series will cover several topics including wire types, wire spring/splay and choosing an underwire for your shape. This post will cover why underwires are used in bras and give a quick overview of their purpose.
https://www.katmakes.com/blog/2019/6/12/tutorial-tailors-boob-ham
Bra maker Grace Horne made 2 versions to have two shapes for pressing. Here's the first one, with 6 panels for a more round shape than a 4 panel.
Here's the second version:
"I made mine with a wool (green) outer, a cotton layer and then wool felt layer. Because I didn’t want the bulk in the seams, I cut the black felt at the seam lines and tacked all the layers together close to the edge."
"I sewed three sections together and retacked the seams opened to hold the layers. I gave it a good press and then zigzagged over the seam to keep it flat and secure the internal felt layer."
"The two halves got sewn together, pressed open and top stitched too."
"I zigzagged around the edge of the black felt on the bottom edge of the dome and around the felt on the base piece. When I sewed the base on, I left 1/3 open and again tacked the seam allowances to each side and turned it right side out."
"I used three pieces of thin (Amazon book envelope) card in the base. They have to be folded and then stuffed in and turned and flattened. You want the grain (folds) to go across each other."
"And then you stuff and stuff and when you think that you’re done you give it a massage and stuff it some more."
"And finally stitch it up. And clean up all the wood chips that the dog has spread around the house! 😁"
Many thanks to Grace Horne for sharing her process!
It is very easy to have wires laying around and not know their size. I originally put this tutorial together with this in mind, but I want to talk about manufacturers for a minute. I've now been through two drafting courses and both sets of teachers (and well known bra making suppliers) have discussed how you can send a schematic to a manufacturer all you want, but they never come back quite the way you expect. I have a strong opinion on the subject. Wires should be actually put up to the body in a wire fitting and if you know the name of the wire that's great for knowing how to order more.
It is a little difficult to determine what size will be right by just doing a wire trace and comparing to a chart and hoping that the wire that comes in the mail actually matches the schematics. For this reason, I highly recommend that if you are making bras for clients, you get a set of wires for doing wire fittings and then do this process of measuring below to get the diameter necessary for doing custom work. If you are doing this process for making bras for yourself and you did a root trace, rather than testing physical wires, I would order the size your root trace and 2 or 3 sizes larger. Slightly bigger is going to be better than too small and pinching breast tissue.
The most accurate rule of thumb is to actually have wire in hand for a wire fitting and for drafters to actually have wire in hand while drafting so you can trace it right into your draft.
Without further ado, here is the process of measuring wire diameter:
Lay your wire on a piece of paper so you can trace it.
When you trace, you want the inside diameter because this is where the seam goes when you attach the cup to the band.
The wire tracing.
Fold the paper so the circle lines mostly line up.
Fold the paper so the circle is lines up again
Measure from the point to the circle. This will be your radius for your compass.
Measure the wire like this to make sure the radius you ended with seems logical.
(radius times 2 to find diameter)
(radius times 2 to find diameter)
